Images 1–16 are my research walls. This season, I was inspired by Clothes Clothes Clothes, Music Music Music, Boys Boys Boys, the memoir by Viv Albertine of the Slits. I implore you all to read it—it is THE MOST inspiring and reinvigorating thing I have EVER read.
Images of Jordan from Derek Jarman’s incredible 1978 film Jubilee, and Vivienne Westwood’s perfect spring/summer 1984 collection called Hypnos.
Top: Vivienne Westwood’s Witches collection (fall/winter 1983). Bottom: Keith Haring’s Diablo headscarf.
More of my ’88–’89 drawings, which seemed to be somehow relevant to what and how I was thinking this season.
The photo in the bottom left corner is Jayne County.
This is the invitation to the show. I called it “Reject Everything,” as this is how I felt while making these clothes. I am rejecting homophobia, misogyny, control, censorship, the myth of freedom, I reject what I have done, the society I live in, the fashion industry. It is about rejuvenation, rebirth, rebellion, and protest.
Preparing the love/hate list for the zine I made for the show.
Pages from the zine. (We still have some copies! If anyone wants one, please email [email protected].)
Photos 19 & 20: Some early versions of our T-shirts, when we were still working out what artwork to combine and what words to use.
21 & 22: Some knitwear designs.
23–26: Images from toile fittings on my office walls.
32–34: Details from of the show’s set, which was created by Tony Horneker and featured pages from Polyester Magazine (which I love) and our own zine.
Copies of the incredible visual resource and inspiration minefield that is Oz, a magazine from the early 1970s that Ben [Kirchhoff] collects.
Sheer trousers, which were worn by the lovely Jack Appleyard in the show.
Introducing my baby: Little Ms. Trojan!
Images 32–34: Details from of the show’s set, which was created by Tony Horneker and featured pages from Polyester Magazine, which I love, and our own zine.
Little Ms. Trojan sleeping on my table.
These are the soles of the shoes. We made casts, engraved with the initials m.k., for the soles, and made the uppers from a piece of rubber that folds around the foot and leg and is tied with some lacing. I am not describing them well, but I love them, and I want to draw attention to them. They are one of the things I’m most proud of that I have ever done.
I was inspired by Vivienne Westwood’s rope sandals from her 1982 Punkature collection. Westwood’s sandals were just one piece of leather, with no sole, no seams, no stitching—no “construction” whatsoever. You just tied them on with a rope. I love that sort of DIY solution to shoe-making. So, this is how I approached my shoes this season. My whole shoe taste is either as fancy, glittery, and silly as possible, or the complete opposite—nothing in the middle.
We held an open casting call for models. We were overwhelmed by the turnout: We had a queue that went all the way down the block and around the park! We couldn’t use everybody, but we met so many incredible people, many of whom I hope I have a chance to work with in the future. And for all those who did walk in the show, I want to say the hugest thank you! It made it the funnest show we have ever done, by a million miles. Thank you all! xxxxx
(Here, left to right: Anna, Jim, and Illy.)
Anna and Daisy in taped DIY “Chanel” jackets.
The lovely and incredible Ms. Emma Elizabeth Arvida Byström in her first look.
Jim again, looking the hotness (and authentically 1976!).
Bianca wearing a cropped squishy bomber and one of our T-shirts.
Thalula. I am in love with Thalula! She was so amazing in the show. Here she is serving Jordan realness. Sooo good.
Mona, wearing her fringe in plaits, a drawstring shirt, and, not visible here, track pants, bloomers, and marigold gloves. She looks so so cute, like Annabella Lwin.
This is Eden. We found her on the internet and fell in love with her and asked her to come be in the show.
Marigold dishwashing gloves.
Elastic-scrunched polyester nightwear, worn by William.
On the left here we have Stuart, who was kind enough to walk in our show wearing totally see-through underwear, which caused shock in many who noticed and frustration in many who didn’t! On the right, Kevin’s wearing a full rubber outfit.
Giselle in a really bad bullet bra under a tufty draped tied-together dress.
Angelique in plastic-sack tailoring.
Louis giving eleganza.
Chris in fringed pink rubber.
Giselle…in a NOT “Regina George boobhole sweater”!
Giselle and India.
Andrew in our batty boy T-shirt.
Adam—who came all the way down to London from Scotland to attend the open casting!—in a polka-dot tulle and fringe dress.
Illy’s second look, a tufty, draped yellow T-shirt/dress.
Illy and India.
Isabella in a squishy bomber jacket and Jeff in a knit onesie.
Ms. Arvida’s closing look: polka-dot tulle, period knickers, tampon earring.
The lovely India.
Ariel, who walked the show with her little sister, Lola.
Elizabeth in an improvised hat.